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Whale watching tours in
Puerto San Carlos -Bahia Magdalena - Magdalena Bay, San
Ignacio Lagoon (Laguna San Ignacio), and Guerrero Negro Scammon's
Lagoon - Laguna Ojo de Liebre, Baja California Sur,
Mexico.
The gray whale is a natural resource protected by the Mexican Law. Whale watching is
regulated. We highly recommend to make your reservations ahead of time and to strictly
follow the regulations. Consult your travel
club or agent. Do not venture around the area without
the guidance of an expert.
Whale
watching - During the annual grey whale
migration, January thru March, the canals, bays, and bocas of the Bahia
Magdalena complex are practically filled with the whales' undulating form.
Puerto Lopez Mateos and San Carlos are the usual centers for whale
watching activities. Often you can spot greys from shore at Puerto
Lopez Mateo as they come and go via Boca de Soledad to the north; a public
parking and viewing area lies north of the port's fish-processing plant.
Pangeros offer two-hour panga tours from this area for approx. $30 U.S.
per panga. Ask at any hotel in San Carlos.
Although limited numbers of pangas are allowed in the
bay at any one time, early morning and late afternoon are best for
avoiding crowds. Because the waters of San Carlos are deeper, you
can usually see more whale acrobatics in this area than off Lopez Mateos.
One of the best viewing spots is Punta Entrada, at the
southern tip of Isla Magdelena, which forms the north end of the wide
channel between Bahia Magdelena and the Pacific. The island is
accessible only by boat, with the best anchorage on the southeast side of
the point, or by small plane (a landing strip lies just north of Punta
Entrada). You can camp at the fish camp near the tip or farther
north near the village of Puerto Magdelena. A San Carlos pangero
will drop you off on the island and pick you up the following day.
Laguna Ojo de Liebre is located in the surroundings of Guerrero Negro. To get there
from town take the Transpeninsular Highway South up to Km 208 then take the access road of
approximately 25 km. By plane, Guerrero Negro has a National Airport 2 km north of the 28th
Parallel.
ORIGIN
Laguna Ojo de Liebre was already known by the primitive settlers of the peninsula who
left as a testimony cave paintings and petroglyphs in the area. This site, which was
chosen by the gray whale to mate and to give birth to their calves was severely exploited
during the 19th century by the whale hunters who were mainly North Americans. It was
precisely Charles Melville Scammon, who from 1856 up to 1869, carried out a reckless hunt
from Bahía de Magdalena up to Laguna Ojo de Liebre. By then the whale population was
estimated around 20 to 30 thousand and they were reduced to near extinction to around 4
thousand. Today, thanks to the protection policies of the Mexican Government the resource
has been restored. Mexico is an outstanding country at international level for its
protective mission. It was the first nation in the world who created in 1972 the gray
whale sanctuary in Laguna Ojo de Liebre, and later on in 1979 in Laguna de San Ignacio.
Boat tours in Laguna Ojo de Liebre for gray whale
watching from January to March. Ecological tours available
in Guerrero Negro with specialized tour guides. A visit to
one of the biggest salt works in the world with a previous
permit from Exportadora de Sal, S.A. de C.V.
Due to the characteristics of the area and to the
restrictions to protect the Biosphere Reserve, it is
essential to hire the services of an expert guide for any
kind of tour. Necessary arrangements can be made through
travel agencies in Guerrero Negro.
Southeast of San Ignacio on the Pacific
Coast lies a large bay used by calving whales January - March every
year. The grays are closer to shore here than at Laguna Ojo de Libre
to the north or Bahia de Magdelena to the south and seem to exhibit
friendlier behavior here than at other calving lagoons. Many mothers
and calves at Laguna San Ignacio actively seek out tactile encounters, ie.,
petting and scratching. They also like to play hide-and-seek with
boats, sometimes blowing bursts of bubbles into the bow, then spy-hopping
(extending the head vertically above the sea surface) to see the effect
their shenanigans may have had on the passengers.
During the calving season, only boats
with whale-watching permits are allowed on the bay. Around a half
dozen camps along the sand road that parallels the bay offer the services
of licensed pangeros, who will take visitors out to meet the whales,
usually for $25.00 US per person with a general minimum of four persons
(some will go out with as few as two). Campo La Fridera seems
particularly friendly and efficient. The typical tour last three to
four hours; you should be at camp by around 9 a.m. to get one of the
boats, Since the 59 Km (35 miles) drive from San Ignacio takes one
and a half hour to two hours due to road conditions (most passenger
vehicles can make it - slowly), you must leave town early in the morning
or spend the previous night at one of the camps. If you don't have
your own vehicle, taxi transportation to the bay can be arranged in San
Ignacio. Inquire at the taxi stand on the main plaza in front of the
church.
The farther south you go along the bay
shore by car, the less time you'll spend on boat transit to the prime
whale-watching area near the mouth of the bay. One of the last camps
on the bay, Ecoturismo
Kuyima, has a fully equipped campground with
hot-water showers, ecologically sound outhouses, and a tented dining
room. For a small amount, you can pitch your own tent, or Kuyima
will provide a tent, sleeping bags, and flashlights. Full meal
service is available. The camp offers a small collection of books on
whales and other marine fauna. Kuyima charges a little more for
whale-watching panga tours than other camps on the bay. Packages
that include transportation to and from San Ignacio, one night at Hotel La
Pinta in San Ignacio, two nights at the camp, two whale watching trips on
the bay, kayaking trips to nearby mangroves, and all meals are also
available. Kuyima is far enough south that you can see whales
spouting and spy-hopping from shore in season.
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