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Puertecitos

"The road from San Felipe to Puertecitos, 85 km (53 miles), though paved, is in a fairly constant state of disrepair, especially south of the turnoff for Residence Faro Beach Trailer Park.  In many places, a sand track parallels the paved road and provides a smoother ride for vehicles that can handle sandy surfaces.  In some places, giant chunks of the road are missing, or there's heavy washboarding.  Still, the road is passable by ordinary passenger vehicles - slowly.  The vados, or places where dry culverts intersect the road, bear mention, as they're some of the most treacherous in all Baja.  Road signs are mostly in English, as on Anglos seem interested in driving this desert road.

 

Indications of human habitation grow increasingly sparse the farther south you proceed.  Three km south of San Felipe lie a handful of condo developments.  Just past the Residence Faro turnoff is a huge, unsightly trash dump right off the highway, used by Faro and other beach camp owners.  Around this point begins an enchanting desert landscape of mesquite, ocotillo, cholla, elephant trees, cenizo, and sage.  Punta Estrella, a good beach for clamming, is six to seven lm south of El Faro.

 

All the way to Puertecitos, every so often a beach camp is signed to the left.  The going rate to park on the beach is around $5.00 US, with facilities usually limited to drinking water and outdoor toilets.  Numbers are multiplying year by year, and there's hardly a stretch of beach left that isn't affiliated with one camp or another.  Chelo's Cafe, at Km 35, makes a nice breakfast stop if you've started early.  There's an adjacent curios shop.

 

Ad# re885

- FOR SALE -
Beach Front Property - 1/2 mile- 444acres - Leveled Land
Puertecitos, Baja California, Mexico
$600,000.00 (U.S.)

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Campo Garcia, 37.5 Km (23.3 miles) north of Puertecitos, is one of the better beach camps toward the north end.  Between Km 38 and 40 is Playa Mexico, a more elaborate one with restaurant, airstrip, and lots for sale.  At around Km 42 you'll start seeing isolated beach homes, some of them loosely associated with Mexican property management companies.  At the same time, beach camps in the middle stretch tend to be primitive - perfect for self-contained rigs, not so good if you need hookups of any kind.

 

Closer to Puertecitos - beginning at around Km 54 - the camps become more elaborate again.  Campo Playa Christina, Campo Alejandra, Campo Turisto Vallarta, and Campo Los Pulpos all appear to be fairly well run.

 

Just north of Puertecitos, Playa Escondida RV Trailer Park fronts a broad, north-facing cove with white sand, brick grills, palapas, picnic tables, and two-way hookups.  Around a small headland toward San Felipe, the smaller Campo Las Chivas offers palapa shaded sites ensconced between a rocky hill and some sand dunes.

 

Puertecitos is a large cluster of small wooden, stone, or breeze-block homes built around a shallow cove with a small beach at one end.  At one time, probably a beautiful spot.  Today it's a jumble of mismatched shelters, rusting trailers, and discarded auto parts only a dune-buggy or fishing fanatic could love.  An unnamed, gated tourist complex offers a boat ramp, restaurant, airstrip, tienda de abarrotes, hot springs, camping and beach palapas.  Gasoline is available from a Pemex station with inoperative pumps; fuel is dispensed from large plastic bottles next to the pumps.  A mechanic's shop can help with repairs.

 

South of Puertecitos the road is appropriate only for vehicles with sturdy tires and shocks.  Bahia Cristina, roughly 5 Km (3 miles) south of Puertecitos, offers a few palapas on a large reddish beach; you can camp here or at other tiny coves nearby for a small fee collected by the ejidos.  Just south of Bahia Cristina, Campo La Costilla is a small gated trailer community where most sites are permanently occupied.  The coastline around Cristina and La Costilla is rocky but suitable for hiking and fishing.

 

About 29 Km (18 miles) south along the coast are two small beach camp/retirement communities - El Huerfanito and Nacho's Camp - with minimal facilities for nonresidents.  San Juan del Mar, another kilometer or so south, is a cluster of retirement/vacation homes similar to those farther south at Bahia San Luis Gonzaga.  Campo Tavo's, just south of San Juan del Mar, offers primitive camping along a pretty bay.  Isla Miramar, a few kilometers offshore, is a prime fishing destination for El Huerfanito, San Juan del Mat, and Camp Tavo's.

 

After another 30 Km several more fish camps appear with cabins for rent, at Punta Bufeo.  The onshore fishing here and at the nearby Isla Encantadas - five island and several islets close to shore - is reportedly good for yellowtail, croaker, corvina, and sierra.  Several of the Encantadas - San Luis, Pomo, Encantada, Lobos - are of volcanic origin, displaying pumice and lava deposits.  The islands make a good kayaking destination, although offshore winds can blow forcefully in winter.  Campo Punta Bufeo charges to camp on the beach; on the premises are a restaurant, outhouses, showers, an airstrip, and a long rock motel with basic rooms.  Other reputal camps along the coast on or just north of Punta Bufeo include Campo Los Delfines, Campo Isla, and Campo Las Encantadas.  Each offers campgrounds as well as boat transport out to the islands."

 

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