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"The road from San Felipe to Puertecitos,
85 km (53 miles), though paved, is in a fairly constant state of
disrepair, especially south of the turnoff for Residence Faro Beach
Trailer Park. In many places, a sand track parallels the paved road
and provides a smoother ride for vehicles that can handle sandy
surfaces. In some places, giant chunks of the road are missing, or
there's heavy washboarding. Still, the road is passable by ordinary
passenger vehicles - slowly. The vados, or places where dry culverts
intersect the road, bear mention, as they're some of the most treacherous
in all Baja. Road signs are mostly in English, as on Anglos seem
interested in driving this desert road.
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Indications of human habitation grow
increasingly sparse the farther south you proceed. Three km south of
San Felipe lie a handful of condo developments. Just past the
Residence Faro turnoff is a huge, unsightly trash dump right off the
highway, used by Faro and other beach camp owners. Around this point
begins an enchanting desert landscape of mesquite, ocotillo, cholla,
elephant trees, cenizo, and sage. Punta Estrella, a good beach for
clamming, is six to seven lm south of El Faro.
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All the way to Puertecitos, every so
often a beach camp is signed to the left. The going rate to park on
the beach is around $5.00 US, with facilities usually limited to drinking
water and outdoor toilets. Numbers are multiplying year by year, and
there's hardly a stretch of beach left that isn't affiliated with one camp
or another. Chelo's Cafe, at Km 35, makes a nice breakfast stop if
you've started early. There's an adjacent curios shop.
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- FOR
SALE -
Beach Front
Property - 1/2 mile- 444acres - Leveled Land
Puertecitos, Baja California, Mexico
$600,000.00
(U.S.)
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Campo Garcia, 37.5 Km (23.3 miles) north
of Puertecitos, is one of the better beach camps toward the north
end. Between Km 38 and 40 is Playa Mexico, a more elaborate one with
restaurant, airstrip, and lots for sale. At around Km 42 you'll
start seeing isolated beach homes, some of them loosely associated with
Mexican property management companies. At the same time, beach camps
in the middle stretch tend to be primitive - perfect for self-contained
rigs, not so good if you need hookups of any kind.
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Closer to Puertecitos - beginning at
around Km 54 - the camps become more elaborate again. Campo Playa
Christina, Campo Alejandra, Campo Turisto Vallarta, and Campo Los Pulpos
all appear to be fairly well run.
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Just north of Puertecitos, Playa
Escondida RV Trailer Park fronts a broad, north-facing cove with white
sand, brick grills, palapas, picnic tables, and two-way hookups.
Around a small headland toward San Felipe, the smaller Campo Las Chivas
offers palapa shaded sites ensconced between a rocky hill and some sand
dunes.
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Puertecitos is a large cluster of small
wooden, stone, or breeze-block homes built around a shallow cove with a
small beach at one end. At one time, probably a beautiful
spot. Today it's a jumble of mismatched shelters, rusting trailers,
and discarded auto parts only a dune-buggy or fishing fanatic could
love. An unnamed, gated tourist complex offers a boat ramp,
restaurant, airstrip, tienda de abarrotes, hot springs, camping and beach
palapas. Gasoline is available from a Pemex station with inoperative
pumps; fuel is dispensed from large plastic bottles next to the
pumps. A mechanic's shop can help with repairs.
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South of Puertecitos the road is
appropriate only for vehicles with sturdy tires and shocks. Bahia
Cristina, roughly 5 Km (3 miles) south of Puertecitos, offers a few
palapas on a large reddish beach; you can camp here or at other tiny coves
nearby for a small fee collected by the ejidos. Just south of Bahia
Cristina, Campo La Costilla is a small gated trailer community where most
sites are permanently occupied. The coastline around Cristina and La
Costilla is rocky but suitable for hiking and fishing.
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About 29 Km (18 miles) south along the
coast are two small beach camp/retirement communities - El Huerfanito and
Nacho's Camp - with minimal facilities for nonresidents. San Juan
del Mar, another kilometer or so south, is a cluster of
retirement/vacation homes similar to those farther south at Bahia San Luis
Gonzaga. Campo Tavo's, just south of San Juan del Mar, offers
primitive camping along a pretty bay. Isla Miramar, a few kilometers
offshore, is a prime fishing destination for El Huerfanito, San Juan del
Mat, and Camp Tavo's.
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After another 30 Km several more fish
camps appear with cabins for rent, at Punta Bufeo. The onshore
fishing here and at the nearby Isla Encantadas - five island and several
islets close to shore - is reportedly good for yellowtail, croaker,
corvina, and sierra. Several of the Encantadas - San Luis, Pomo,
Encantada, Lobos - are of volcanic origin, displaying pumice and lava
deposits. The islands make a good kayaking destination, although
offshore winds can blow forcefully in winter. Campo Punta Bufeo
charges to camp on the beach; on the premises are a restaurant, outhouses,
showers, an airstrip, and a long rock motel with basic rooms. Other
reputal camps along the coast on or just north of Punta Bufeo include
Campo Los Delfines, Campo Isla, and Campo Las Encantadas. Each
offers campgrounds as well as boat transport out to the islands."
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Positions are updated every
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